best bike helmet commuter image
LastGenera
Imho, the bike manufacturers are to blame, and here are my opinions. What's your two cents?
In my view, bike saddles are uncomfortable and possibly cause the dreaded Male Dysfunction Syndrome. Also, the Shimano fancy gears and shifters wear out in only 1,000 miles and are costly. In comparison, old bikes had gears/chains that lasted 20 years or more.
Open-face bike helmets don't protect the teeth from impact, and there imho aren't inexpensive full-face helmets for people who wear glasses, size 63cm, or XXL.
Then, there's bike theft.
Any other reasons not listed here?
Answer
I hate to say it, but I strongly disagree on every point you've listed.
The 'root' of the low visibility of commuter biking is that the population (as a whole) has been encouraged to obtain and then maintain a sedentary lifestyle. Suburbanization and the 'sprawl' left over from the 50's contributes to longer commutes in terms of distance and time. Working longer hours at a given job means less time to make the travel between home and work .. which results in looking for a faster means of doing so.
The average level of activity in today's population is around 50 percent of the activity level of the 1950's population. That means folks are simply doing less in the way of exercise, and when they do attempt it, it is less strenuous. Sure, there's a handful of exceptions who take exercise (and strenuous types at that!) as a way of life ... but they are more than compensated for by those who do absolutely nothing.
I've ridden on the same Shimano drivetrain on each bike I own (the newest one is a 2004, the oldest is a 1969, and there are three from different ages in between). No bike has less than 7500 miles on it ... the 2004 road bike has almost 8000 miles in just over 2.5 years of riding. There's nothing wrong with the shifters, brakes, rings, cassettes, chain, or freewheel on any of the bikes.
The variety of saddle materials and shapes out there means there's something for everyone. The more probable cause of an uncomfortable saddle experience is that you aren't fitted properly to the bike itself! Check your overall fit at a local bike shop ... there's a fair bit of geomtery involved. And no two people are exactly the same, so your setup has to be somewhat 'custom'.
Cleanup after arriving at work from a lengthy commute can be tricky, if your place of employment doesn't have showers. However, it's pretty much guaranteed it DOES have a washroom - which means running water. Pack a cloth and a towel, some work clothes, and some soap/deodorant. You can clean up with relatively little fuss quite quickly.
As to theft - there's a couple of answers to this. One is to use a 'beater' bike for the commute, so it doesn't appear as attractive to potential thieves. The other is to subtly pressure your employer into providing safe storage during the workday. Email me - I can give you a good example of how I changed the way things were done with my previous employer. Or check a previous answer I've given here on Yahoo! Cycling ... it pretty much portrays the same example.
As to actually pressuring the employer ... use the idea that a fit and active employee is a better health risk from an insurance point of view, so it would be to his benefit to set up safe storage in lieu of higher premiums.
Lastly - there are several styles of bicycle out there on the market. The 'commuter' bike is designed specifically for getting around an urban area; it's slightly more comfortable riding position than a true road bike, and easier to pedal and manoeuvre than a mountain bike. They can be found fairly cheaply; take a look at your local shop. Then try a couple of styles out ... there's one out there for everyone. If you can't find a good bike for you out there, it isn't usually the manufacturers fault - it's yours, for not doing the legwork (and yes, sometimes that means exercise as well!).
I hate to say it, but I strongly disagree on every point you've listed.
The 'root' of the low visibility of commuter biking is that the population (as a whole) has been encouraged to obtain and then maintain a sedentary lifestyle. Suburbanization and the 'sprawl' left over from the 50's contributes to longer commutes in terms of distance and time. Working longer hours at a given job means less time to make the travel between home and work .. which results in looking for a faster means of doing so.
The average level of activity in today's population is around 50 percent of the activity level of the 1950's population. That means folks are simply doing less in the way of exercise, and when they do attempt it, it is less strenuous. Sure, there's a handful of exceptions who take exercise (and strenuous types at that!) as a way of life ... but they are more than compensated for by those who do absolutely nothing.
I've ridden on the same Shimano drivetrain on each bike I own (the newest one is a 2004, the oldest is a 1969, and there are three from different ages in between). No bike has less than 7500 miles on it ... the 2004 road bike has almost 8000 miles in just over 2.5 years of riding. There's nothing wrong with the shifters, brakes, rings, cassettes, chain, or freewheel on any of the bikes.
The variety of saddle materials and shapes out there means there's something for everyone. The more probable cause of an uncomfortable saddle experience is that you aren't fitted properly to the bike itself! Check your overall fit at a local bike shop ... there's a fair bit of geomtery involved. And no two people are exactly the same, so your setup has to be somewhat 'custom'.
Cleanup after arriving at work from a lengthy commute can be tricky, if your place of employment doesn't have showers. However, it's pretty much guaranteed it DOES have a washroom - which means running water. Pack a cloth and a towel, some work clothes, and some soap/deodorant. You can clean up with relatively little fuss quite quickly.
As to theft - there's a couple of answers to this. One is to use a 'beater' bike for the commute, so it doesn't appear as attractive to potential thieves. The other is to subtly pressure your employer into providing safe storage during the workday. Email me - I can give you a good example of how I changed the way things were done with my previous employer. Or check a previous answer I've given here on Yahoo! Cycling ... it pretty much portrays the same example.
As to actually pressuring the employer ... use the idea that a fit and active employee is a better health risk from an insurance point of view, so it would be to his benefit to set up safe storage in lieu of higher premiums.
Lastly - there are several styles of bicycle out there on the market. The 'commuter' bike is designed specifically for getting around an urban area; it's slightly more comfortable riding position than a true road bike, and easier to pedal and manoeuvre than a mountain bike. They can be found fairly cheaply; take a look at your local shop. Then try a couple of styles out ... there's one out there for everyone. If you can't find a good bike for you out there, it isn't usually the manufacturers fault - it's yours, for not doing the legwork (and yes, sometimes that means exercise as well!).
What amount of cc is good for a starter bike?
Ben Stoepp
I'm about to buy my first motorcycle. I have ridden a moped before but never motorcycle. I want something with a good amount of power but nothing that will knock me off the bike. So what area of cc should I be looking in?
Answer
It seems to me that all your answers (above) are pushing you towards sport-bikes (Ninja, CBR, GSX, etc)... have you considered a cruiser?
Cruisers have a low center of gravity, well balanced, and very easy to learn on for a beginner. The 650-750 Honda Shadow line, V-star from Yamaha, Boulevards (S50/S65) from Suzuki, or Vulcan's from Kawasaki are all pretty much the same look, feel, and ride... All of them are capable around-town, rural-roads, on the Interstate, or cross-country (yes, I've taken a Shadow from coast to coast).
If you want a sport-style bike... I recommend starting small with 250cc to 500cc. But if you're looking at cruisers, starting out at 650-750cc is not out of the question. There are also choices of Sport-Touring bikes in the 500-700cc range, which look sporty, yet maintain the riding position of a cruiser, lightweight, good fuel economy, and VERY comfortable on long rides!
If you're worried about too much power... I'll give you some info/stats on some of the bikes I have...
CBR250... not enough to make you think you're going to fly off, but very capable of highway speeds and faster off the line than any average car. This bike is awesome on the rural roads and around town.
CB750-NightHawk... 0-60 in 2.4-sec... yes, it has the power to scare you to death, so not a good starter bike!
Shadow 750... Great starter bike, good power, capable of cruising 80mph all day long, and not quite "push you off the seat" power. Low center of gravity, and excellent "around-town" or commuter bike.
Sabre 1100... Just like the Shadow, but a little heavier and more "oomph". It is better suited for longer highway trips and 2-up riding, but capable as a commuter. Could be a beginner's bike, but only if you can handle the additional weight and torque.
Goldwing 1800... yeah, we won't go there... it's a rolling couch, weighs as much as a sub-compact car, and this beast is MADE for touring! NOT a beginner's bike!
VT700C Shadow ('85 model)... Yes, its a cruiser, but 0-60 in 3.5-sec. YES, it will launch you into the pillion and make you hang on if you hit it hard! This is also NOT a good beginner bike unless you have some experience!
Take the MSF course... PLEASE! Learn to ride properly, wear the gear (helmet, gloves, jacket, boots, etc), and be safe... remember, all other drivers are trying to kill you... remember that every time you sit on the saddle and you'll be a bit safer every time you ride!
It seems to me that all your answers (above) are pushing you towards sport-bikes (Ninja, CBR, GSX, etc)... have you considered a cruiser?
Cruisers have a low center of gravity, well balanced, and very easy to learn on for a beginner. The 650-750 Honda Shadow line, V-star from Yamaha, Boulevards (S50/S65) from Suzuki, or Vulcan's from Kawasaki are all pretty much the same look, feel, and ride... All of them are capable around-town, rural-roads, on the Interstate, or cross-country (yes, I've taken a Shadow from coast to coast).
If you want a sport-style bike... I recommend starting small with 250cc to 500cc. But if you're looking at cruisers, starting out at 650-750cc is not out of the question. There are also choices of Sport-Touring bikes in the 500-700cc range, which look sporty, yet maintain the riding position of a cruiser, lightweight, good fuel economy, and VERY comfortable on long rides!
If you're worried about too much power... I'll give you some info/stats on some of the bikes I have...
CBR250... not enough to make you think you're going to fly off, but very capable of highway speeds and faster off the line than any average car. This bike is awesome on the rural roads and around town.
CB750-NightHawk... 0-60 in 2.4-sec... yes, it has the power to scare you to death, so not a good starter bike!
Shadow 750... Great starter bike, good power, capable of cruising 80mph all day long, and not quite "push you off the seat" power. Low center of gravity, and excellent "around-town" or commuter bike.
Sabre 1100... Just like the Shadow, but a little heavier and more "oomph". It is better suited for longer highway trips and 2-up riding, but capable as a commuter. Could be a beginner's bike, but only if you can handle the additional weight and torque.
Goldwing 1800... yeah, we won't go there... it's a rolling couch, weighs as much as a sub-compact car, and this beast is MADE for touring! NOT a beginner's bike!
VT700C Shadow ('85 model)... Yes, its a cruiser, but 0-60 in 3.5-sec. YES, it will launch you into the pillion and make you hang on if you hit it hard! This is also NOT a good beginner bike unless you have some experience!
Take the MSF course... PLEASE! Learn to ride properly, wear the gear (helmet, gloves, jacket, boots, etc), and be safe... remember, all other drivers are trying to kill you... remember that every time you sit on the saddle and you'll be a bit safer every time you ride!
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Title Post: Why are there fewer commuter-cyclists lately? What are the main thresholds to bike-commuting?
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